Spanish-Style Shrimp With Garlic

Sweet shrimp in garlicky olive oil is just about the ideal tapas bar snack. The sweet shrimp and garlic aroma go perfectly with a nice sherry, while the leftover oil at the bottom of the earthenware dish is the ideal sopping-up liquid for good Spanish bread. It’s also one of those dishes that, even when mediocre, is still pretty darn good. I’ve eaten enough mediocre gambas al ajillo in my day—even in Spain!—to say that with confidence.

But when it’s done perfectly, when the shrimp are juicy and tender with a crunchy pop, when the oil sings with a chorus of layered garlic flavors, it can be transcendent. That’s what we’re after today.

The traditional preparation for gambas al ajillo is overwhelmingly simple: heat up olive oil in an earthenware cazuela on a fire until hot. Add some slivered garlic and shrimp, cook them briefly, perhaps with a touch of red pepper or a bay leaf, finish it off with a shot of brandy or sherry vinegar, and serve it all with a sprinkle of parsley.

Ingredients

 

  • 12 cloves garlic
  • 1 pound large shrimp, peeled, shells reserved
  • 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • Kosher salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
  • Pinch red pepper flakes, or a 1-inch piece dried guajillo chile
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons sherry vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley leaves

Directions

  1. Finely mince 4 garlic cloves and place in large bowl. Smash 4 cloves under the flat side of a knife and place in a large skillet. Thinly slice remaining four garlic cloves and set aside.

  2. Add shrimp to bowl with minced garlic. Add 3 tablespoons olive oil, 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt, and baking soda. Toss to combine thoroughly and set aside at room temperature.

  3. Add shrimp shells to skillet with smashed garlic and add remaining olive oil and pepper flakes. Set over medium-low to low heat and cook, stirring and tossing occasionally, until shells are deep ruby red, garlic is pale golden brown, and oil is intensely aromatic, about 10 minutes. Oil should be gently bubbling the whole time. When ready, strain through a fine-mesh strainer into a small bowl, tossing and pressing the shrimp shells to extract as much oil as possible. Discard shells and garlic.

  4. Return flavored oil to skillet and heat over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add sliced garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until pale golden brown, about 1 minute. Add shrimp and cook, tossing and stirring constantly until shrimp are barely cooked through, about 2 minutes. Add sherry vinegar and parsley and toss to combine. Season to taste with salt. Serve immediately.